The Journal · Royal cities, forts and desert
Rajasthan & the Palaces
Rajasthan is India's most romantic region — a land of royal cities, living forts, marble palaces and desert, and the heart of most first journeys to India. This is our editorial guide to travelling it well: the palace circuit of Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, the hidden estates beyond them, the golden fort of Jaisalmer, and when to go.

Jodhpur vs Udaipur: Which Rajasthan City Is for You?
Two of Rajasthan's most beautiful cities, side by side. A clear guide to choosing between Jodhpur's fort-and-desert drama and Udaipur's lakes and romance — or fitting both into one trip.

Jaipur, Sixth Happiest City in the World
Time Out placed Jaipur sixth of 150 cities in July 2026, ahead of Chicago and Shanghai. The survey asked residents how they feel about living there, not visitors how they were treated — which is exactly why the result is worth reading carefully rather than repeating.

Best Time to Visit Rajasthan: A Month-by-Month Guide
Rajasthan rewards those who arrive in the right season. A month-by-month reading of the desert state, from the cool clarity of winter to the drama of the monsoon.

The Palace Circuit of Rajasthan: Jaipur, Jodhpur & Udaipur
The three great royal cities of Rajasthan, each with its own colour and character — and the case for experiencing them as a single, unbroken palace journey.

A Luxury Guide to Udaipur, the City of Lakes
The most romantic city in India, wrapped around shining water and crowned with marble palaces. How to experience Udaipur at its most beautiful.

Jaipur for the Discerning Traveller: Beyond the Pink City
Everyone sees the Pink City's icons. The discerning traveller goes further — into royal apartments, artisan workshops, and dawn at the forts before the crowds.

Udaipur vs Jaipur: Which Rajasthan City Is Right for You?
Two of Rajasthan's great cities, two very different moods. A curator's clear-eyed guide to choosing between the pink city and the city of lakes — or fitting in both.

Rajasthan's Hidden Estates: Beyond Jaipur, Jodhpur & Udaipur
Past the famous three cities lies a quieter Rajasthan — marble Jain temples, forgotten forts, and private estates where you may be the only guests.

Jaisalmer & the Thar: The Golden City and Desert Luxury
Rising from the Thar like a sandcastle made real, Jaisalmer is Rajasthan's most romantic outpost. How to experience the golden city and its desert in luxury.

How Many Days Do You Really Need in Rajasthan?
After two decades composing Rajasthan journeys, my honest answer to the question everyone asks — and how each extra day changes the trip.

Jodhpur: How to Read the Blue City
Most visits to Jodhpur are a fort in the morning and a drive out after lunch. The city rewards considerably more than that — and the blue houses are not decorative.

Ranakpur: The Most Astonishing Building Most Visitors Drive Past
Fourteen hundred carved pillars, no two alike, in a valley between Udaipur and Jodhpur. Ranakpur is on the road most Rajasthan itineraries already take, and most of them do not stop.
Design Your India Around Rajasthan
Tell us what draws you, and a curator will compose a private journey around it — typically within one working day.
Begin the Conversation